Pdf [updated] - Patternmaking For Underwear Design Kristina Shin
Applying elastic to waistbands and leg openings requires calculated tension. Patternmakers use specific ratios (often reducing the elastic length by 10% to 15% relative to the pattern opening) to ensure the garment stays secure without digging into the skin. Key Methodology in Kristina Shin's Guide
Bra patternmaking is notoriously difficult due to the three-dimensional nature of the bust. Shin’s methodology breaks the bra down into manageable components:
: The base drafts primarily use an industry-standard 34B (75B) measurement, though the 2nd Edition includes a chapter on grading for other sizes. Pros and Cons Patternmaking for Underwear Design, by Kristina Shin PhD
If you design activewear, lingerie, swimwear, or even corsetry, Patternmaking for Underwear Design fills a glaring gap. Most patternmaking books give you one page on elastics and call it done. Shin gives you a whole chapter on elastic tension, channeling, and hook-and-eye placement. patternmaking for underwear design kristina shin pdf
The book covers a range of key concepts and techniques, including:
: It uses clear, step-by-step diagrams that make complex geometric transformations (like pivoting darts for a rounded cup) accessible.
| Retailer | Format | Notes | |----------|--------|-------| | Amazon.com | Paperback, Kindle eBook | International shipping available | | Barnes & Noble | Paperback | Standard retail | | FashionDesignBooks.com.ng | Paperback | African distribution | | WorldofBooks.com | Used/Pre-loved | Potentially lower cost | | Alibris | Used | Marketplace sellers | | Abebooks | Used/New | International sellers | Applying elastic to waistbands and leg openings requires
: Light materials require narrower elastics to prevent distortion along the edges.
: Every drafting step is accompanied by highly detailed technical drawings and illustrations.
Kristina Shin, Ph.D., is an Associate Professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University’s Institute of Textiles and Clothing. She is not a casual pattern maker; she is a rigorous academic who has dedicated her career to bridging the gap between traditional tailoring and modern digital pattern technologies. Shin’s methodology breaks the bra down into manageable
What you are trying to draft (e.g., hipster, thong, bodysuit)? The stretch percentage of your fabric?
Outerwear requires "positive ease" to allow room for movement. Underwear requires "negative ease," meaning the pattern pieces must be drafted smaller than the actual body measurements so the fabric stretches to hug the contours of the body.
